APPEARANCES ARE EVERYTHING - EVEN WHEN DEAD

 

"If you want to know about the living, go and see how they bury their dead",  is quite a famous saying and true indeed. In Genoa, the old historical cemetery, Cimitero Monumentale di Staglieno, is one such place. Here the Genovese merchants, industrialists, politicians and national heroes as well as those who achieved any kind of fame during their lifetime are buried at great expense. I visited Staglieno last week with a group of ladies from the American International Womens' Club. Our guide, Roberta, told us a fascinating story of how Genoa once was the most important city for industrial development in Italy, thanks to the port and many new manufacturing inventions. The many sculptures and tombs in Staglieno reveal how people lived and worked in the old days, what they believed in and how the city and its inhabitants have changed over time. But above all, how the notable families wanted to be remembered by future generations.

 

 

 

Staglieno is partly situated on a hill and quite a few of the buildings and structures can be seen when approaching the cemetery from the city centre direction.

Impressive, lifelike sculptures were commissioned by the rich and wealthy to decorate the family tombs. Men liked to include tools of their trade and women wanted to be remembered for their good works.

 

This sculpture is one of four art works selected by an American artist, who has recently been given permission by the City of Genoa to clean and restore the statues to their former glory.

It is all because of Napoleon Bonaparte that Staglieno exists in the first place: he gave an order in 1804 that everybody, rich and poor, have to be buried in church, which meant that specially designed areas had to be created. Staglieno opened in 1851 and it is still going strong. There are 60 000 graves in Staglieno and new areas are created every day. This is possible due to an interesting custom in Italy: a family can have a grave site up to 30 years, but after that time all the people buried in that particular site will be dug out and bones will be put in a smaller container and buried elsewhere. City officials administering the cemetery decide where the remains will be reburied, not the families. However, the most historical graves at Staglieno are an exception to this rule.

 

The details in these statues on this corridor are an amazing testimony what a remarkable material marble
 is in the hands of a skillful artist.

 Staglieno is divided into several sections. It is a large place, not easily explored in couple of hours. This is a place where you need to come back again and again to truly appreciate its beuty and significance. There is a Jewish cemetery and separate sections for protestants and catholics as well as for the English, who came to Genoa to make their fortune. There are also areas dedicated to war heroes and a particularly beautiful spot is reserved for children. Famous people, such as wife of Oscar Wilde, Constance, is buried here as well as the Italian national hero Giuseppe Mazzini. Also, the Italian singer-songwriter Fabrizio De Andre, who died in 1999, has his last resting place here.

 

Giuseppe Mazzini (1805-1872) was an intellectual, politician and journalist, who campaigned for the unification of Italy.

The best artists of the day (Giulio Monteverde and Leonardo Bistolfi among others) were engaged to create the most impressive art works.  Even though the historical tombs are important, Staglieno is also about architecture and beautifully preserved landscapes.




The details in some of the sculptures are astonishing: monks did not have pockets in their robes and therefore they carried handkerchiefs in the sleeves. Sure enough, a handkerchief is hidden in one of the sleeves, under the book,  in this life size portrait of a monk reading a text.

 Roberta told us how, in the 1850s when Staglieno was opened,  realism influenced the artists making the marble sculptures. At that time people were certain that there will be life after death. They wanted to reflect this by commissioning statues that would picture them exactly as they were when alive, down to the last details of dress and facial expressions, even the furniture that was used as a backdrop to the statues was often carefully re-created.  Photography was developing at the same time and notable families thought it so important to get their place of honour at Staglieno, that they were willing to pose for a long time for a photographer to snap a picture of them having the last look of a dying relative.



This family scene was re-created from a photograph.

Later, the lifelike sculptures were abandoned in order to reflect new beliefs. Life after death was not so certain anymore and in the beginning of 1900s art deco style became more dominant. There are beautiful examples of this at Staglieno.



A dance with death. This art work caused a small scandal at the time it was revealed to the general public as the dancing lady was not properly dressed...

It was not just the rich and wealthy who wanted to be buried at Staglieno. The most famous story is that of the Peanut Lady of Genoa. She sold peanuts and small snacks in street corners and saved a big part of her meagre income in order to have a tomb at Staglieno. Her story became famous in the city and she got her wish. Roberta, our guide, told us that her statue is the only one of a working woman. Generally speaking, ladies wanted to portray themselves as good wives and mothers and not as someone who had to earn their own living.

 



The Peanut Lady of Genoa.



 

   

PASSEGGIATA ANITA GARIBALDI

In the heart of Nervi, where we live, is a beautiful promenade by the sea, passeggiata Anita Garibaldi.

It is easy to find if you come by train: step out of Nervi station, walk 10 metres and you will see a sign "Marinella" on the left. Go down the stone path and you have arrived.

  This is my favourite place anytime of day. Early in the morning you will see people jogging and walking their dogs. At lunchtime small, informal looking beach restaurants open for business and tables fill in quickly. Late afternoon it is time for a quick espresso or a generous portion of ice cream. In the evening there is a gentle breeze from the sea and it is the perfect place to build up an appetite and have a quick drink, an aperitivo, before dinner.
 

 

 

The fully covered path, 2 km in length one way, officially starts from this small port for small leisure boats (see pic above).  

 

 

 

This area is worth exploring too: there are many restaurants, cafes and ice cream bars. Also, a communal outdoor swimming pool at the end of the pear, which is currently closed. However, it is possible to walk all the way to the end of the pear and have a swim from there. 

 

 

 

The path twists and turns with a full view of the sea. Very, very long time ago - from 1820s onwards - the same route was used by fishermen and farmers. In 1945 the city of Genoa named it according to Anita Garibaldi, wife of general Giuseppe Garibaldi. The passeggiata looks very green and tropical in places, there are huge palms and other trees along the way.

 

 

 

 

Along the passeggiata there are couple of kayaking clubs and a diving school. Often on the weekends, it is fun to watch people playing water polo with the kayaks. A natural rock pool is open during the hottest months of the year.  In many places, there are also steps down leading the rocks. Quite good for fishing too, judging by the number of hopefuls with their fishing rods every weekend.

 

 

 

During the weekend, especially on Sundays, you will not see passeggiata as empty in this pic above. The benches are full of people reading newspapers, talking to phones, chatting with friends...

 

 

Ships queueing to get to the Genoa port are a common sight. I love watching the ships, often 3-4 together forming a chain.

 

 

 

Several well marked small tunnels and steps from the passeggiata lead to Parco di Nervi. This very big park is a great area for walking and if sea views are not enough to keep one entertained, three art galleries certainly will!

 

 



 

LOUIS VUITTON OR MAYBE NOT

  What a gorgeous handbag! It caught my eye immediately: there it was, on the pavement, on top of black plastic sheet with 10 other bags, wallets and belts. They all looked very expensive and had impressive designer labels or an easily recognisable pattern. The details were right too, glimmering gold locks and embellishments.  Even though I must have slowed down only for couple of seconds, the street vendors - a group of African men - took notice and were immediately watching me, smiling invitingly. I quickened my step. Tempting, but no: buying fake goods is a criminal offence in Italy and the fiscal police does take their duties seriously. Being a tourist is no excuse and a heavy fine (up to 1000 euro)  or worse would be certain to spoil any holiday.

  There are still many people willing to take the risk. Counterfeit products are now a billion dollar business, especially in Italy and France. There is evidence that bags, shoes and accessories are manufactured elsewhere and then shipped to Italy, where the all important finishing touches are added. The fake products are also increasingly well made, which is another big head ache for the designers of luxury goods. It is interesting that both Italy and France have chosen to make buying of fake goods an offence. It is not a crime in Britain, for example.

  

  

MIRO: "MY STUDIO IS A GARDEN AND I AM THE GARDENER"

The Genovese seem to think that this is a second rate city when it comes to cultural events compared to the rest of  Italy. I don't think that Genoa is doing too badly, though. Right now, for example, there is a big Joan Miro exhibition "Poetry and Light"  at the Palazzo Ducale (see also  www.come-to-liguria.com).

   I went there this morning early, wanting to avoid crowds and had a great luxury of walking through the exhibition as almost the only visitor. Later, of course, there were plenty others wanting to see the works of Miro, but it was really nice to look at the paintings in peace and quiet.

 

The Miro exhibition will run until April 7th 2013 at Palazzo Ducale in Genoa.

 

   In Italy an ID is required if you want to have an audio guide in English to go through an exhibition. I had forgotten my passport at home and was not able to have the gadget, but nevertheless, the story of Miro was told in many ways including posters in English. The most interesting was an interview with 84-year old Miro, who was talking to his friend. The interview was in French with Italian subtitles, but it was still possible to understand some of their conversation. Miro came across as a gentle person, whose imagination was still very much alive.

   Apart from 50 large, abstract paintings, there are also bronzes/sculptures and works made of all kinds of materials, including old newspapers and wood. All of them are on show in Italy for the first time.  I have to say that most of the paintings left me somewhat cold, however, I loved the ones with deep blue/red/yellow colours, which were inspired by nature in Majorca, where Miro painted.  It was easier to connect with Miro's signature images of birds, the moon and the eyes than the more difficult, strong black strokes of paint on white background.

   Miro's studio was reproduced in one room and it had many of the original objects the artist used daily. Standing in front of the studio, you could get a feel of a great creative mind, surrounded by finished and unfinished paintings.

  The small section of sculptures was a revelation to me. They were so funny and playful: simple, everyday objects had been transformed into something totally different. They made me laugh and wonder, how come I have never realised that a woman's body or a bird could look like that.  

 

 

Palazzo Ducale will also host a photographic exhibition by Steve McCurry soon.

 

 The Miro exhibition is not the only reason to visit Palazzo Ducale. From 18th October 2012 to February 24th 2013, there will also be an unmissable opportunity to see 200 photographs by Steve McCurry. The image on the poster is that of an Afghan girl, Sharbat Gula, which caused quite a stir when it was published on the cover of National Geographic magazine in June 1985. This particular photo will be on display.
 

 

  

 

BAROQUE MUSIC IN AN OLD BASILICA

A famous Italian architect Galeazzo Alessi may have died in 1572, but in Genoa, he is remembered fondly to this day. One of the most notable of Alessi's many designs is a Renaissance church Santa Maria Assunta in Carignano, located in the old historical heart of the city, a magnificent building, which took 50 years to construct. On Friday,  a baroque music concert was organised in honour of Alessi, who was born 500 years ago, in 1512.  I went with friends to listen to a wonderful selection of pieces by Vivaldi, Monteverdi and Mascitti.  Even though the acoustics in the old church was less than perfect at times during the performance, I thoroughly enjoyed the group, La Risonanza. The concert was free and the church full to the last seat. This was only one of the many free classical music concerts organised in Genoa, throughout the year, for anyone to enjoy. Another pleasant discovery about Genoa as a city in the past couple of weeks!

BARGAINS, BARGAINS, BARGAINS AT SERRAVALLE

I am no fashionista, but occasionally I have been known to fall for designer stuff. Handbags are a major weakness, I admit. However, to get something "hot" with bargain prices has a major appeal.

Today Daughter and I had a blast at one of the many designer outlets in Europe: Serravalle. Only an hour or so from Genoa, it can easily be reached by car or - if you are going on a weekend - a shuttle bus from Piazza Caricamento in Porto Antico will take you there too. The navetta (means shuttle in Italian, but a cowshed in Finnish) leaves at 10 am and returns back to Genoa from Serravalle at 5 PM. Customers are picked up from Genoa Principe railway station too - 5-10  minutes after it has left Porto Antico. Make sure that you travel on Saturday, Sunday or Monday if you want to use the shuttle. Only 15 euros return, it is not a bad price for a great day out!

 

Tickets can be bought on the day, at least out of the main tourist season.

 

   Contrary to a common belief, not all Italians are wondering around dressed in Dolce & Gabbana. They don't all have shoes by Ferragamo or everyday clothing from Versace. Lots of people do have handbags which look like Louis Vuitton, but believe me they are not (I know handbags, more of that later). All the big shots are represented at Serravalle and yes, there are bargains at the high end of fashion as well.

Serious discounts available.

 

Serravalle is not about going through piles of stuff in a warehouse environment.

However, the "middle of the road" fashion boutiques get my vote at Serravalle. There are real bargains available for anyone looking for the latest "have-to-have-jeans", sportswear, the wacky and quirky. Shoes would easily merit a blog entry of their own.

 

Fashion right now in Italy. Ladies are mostly wearing leggings and stylish tops combined with killer shoes.
Jeans are acceptable, but have to be a tight fit.
Accessories are everything. That is the secret to the Italian style.
 

   .

 

I am very unlikely to hit the "red carpet" any time soon, but if that opportunity ever arises, I will buy these shoes to make a lasting impression.  Sadly, had to leave them on the window.

 

See above.

 

 

   Serravalle is not just about clothes either. There are very good shops for all sorts of stuff for home - all in all, numerous shops, all within easy walking distance in a village environment. I have visited some outlets/factory shops in the US and this is a very different experience: it is designed for people to enjoy, there is no feeling of entering a cheap factory warehouse, where you go through piles of things in no particular order, trying to find you size. Serravalle is not about being cheap and cheerful, it is about shopping good quality stuff with reasonable prices and serious discounts. You may not always find your size.

Word of warning: Plan your day. Plan when are you going to have lunch, as all the restaurants get incredibly full with long, long queues from 1 PM to 2.30 PM. Catch the wave and be there earlier or later than that. We ended up walking around a long time, trying to get lunch. Eventually, there was a lull and we were able to have something to eat. There are only one or two places at Serravalle offering table service, but mostly it is easy "serve yourself and pay at the till" food, which is totally appropriate for Serravalle.

A SNACK - GENOVESE STYLE

There is a bakery on our street, more commonly known as a Focacceria. They offer the most popular savoury snack around here, the focaccia, from early morning to late in the evening, seven days a week. This flat, deliciously buttery bread with toppings, attracts a constant stream of customers. In fact, these type of small bakeries are almost as numerous as cafees, there is one on every street corner.

This may not look that special - but wait until you taste the rich, creamy cheese filling on this Focaccia al formaggio and you will never, ever touch a hot dog again! The best focaccia al formaggio is said to be baked in Recco, which is another small town not far from Genoa city.

 

 

Olives give this focaccia a particularly lovely, salty flavour. One piece of this size is about 2 euro.

A focaccia can be eaten any time of the day - it is at its best straight from the hot oven and normally enjoyed there and then, in the street, from a paper bag. Focaccia comes with numerous toppings: olives, cheese, herbs, potatoes, onions.... It is produced in big, flat pans and a piece will be cut according to customers' wishes. Delicious! Yum!