WHEN THE POST GOES MISSING

A friend decided to send me a cookery book from Finland as a present and I was really looking forward to getting it. I knew when she had mailed it, so it was just question of waiting for couple of days. But when I finally went downstairs to check the post, I was suprised to find a small box torn to pieces in the rubbish bin nearby. It had my name and address on it, but no book... 

  Since then, I have heard several stories from friends about parcels and letters which have never arrived through mail. It is not always safe to send anything from Italy to abroad either. If mail is sent to an office address, the chances of it disappearing are greatly reduced, I have been told. It is also wise to send any official, important letters by registered mail. At least you have proof that you sent it!

AUCTION ITALIAN STYLE

Just a few minutes walk downhill from Piazza de Ferrari, in Vico Falmonica, is Cafe Cambi. Step inside and be ready for a pleasant surprise: heavy crystal chandeliers and very skillfully restored frescoes by Bernardo Strozzi from 1618, are instant reminders of a grand past of this magnificent building. Waiters in white crispy uniforms serve customers with trays full of coffee and cakes. As a visitor to Genoa, you could simply sit there, have a break and admire the historical surroundings. But there is more, much more, to this oasis in the heart of centro storico.
   The cafe is owned by the Cambi family and in the same complex is the town office the family business, Cambi Auction House, famous in Genoa. Here prospective sellers might come to meet the auctioneers and discuss some pressing business matters, such as to negotiate a sale of the contents of a family villa full of antique furniture, fine art and hand made carpets from the Orient.

   The Cambi Auction house was founded in 1998 by two brothers, Matteo and Sebastian Cambi. Two other brothers, Marcello - who is said to be the engine and soul of the whole family - and Giulio, are also very actively involved with the auction house.  A new branch was opened in Milan last year. There are 15 experts specialising in arts, design, clocks, books, oriental art and furniture.

This is just an example of items which were for sale in a recent auction held in March.

   The actual auctions happen in Castello MacKenzie, which is one of the architectually most interesting historical places in Genoa. The Cambi family bought this national monument in 2002 and it is now the headquarters of the auction house.

    The Castello was originally built between 1893 and 1905 when a Scottish insurer Evan MacKenzie commissioned a young and relatively unknown Italian architect from Florence, Gino Coppede to design it. Castello MacKenzie is open to the general public on auction days and it is possible to have a tour around the castle. It is worth reading the whole and fascinating story from the auction house's website www.cambiaste.com.

  Italian auction houses may not be as well known as Christie's and Sotheby's in London, but come to an international auction, such as the of Oriental Art auction in June last year, and you realise that Genoa might well be the place for something extraordinary and special. During that particular auction, Cambi sold an 18th century gilded and painted bronze from China for 597000 euro, a record at that time. The estimate was 20 000 - 25 000 euro.

   This year there are plenty of auctions to choose from and even if you end up buying nothing, Castello MacKenzie is certainly worth a trip.

  

   

 

COLOMBA PASQUALE: EASTER BREAD WITH A PEDIGREE

I am amazed how there is a special bread, biscuits, tart or sweet cake for every single national holiday in Italy! And now, as Easter is coming, the windows of local bakeries have all been decorated with special versions of the traditional Easter treat: la Colomba Pasquale.  This delicious sweet bread tastes a little bit like panettone at Christmas time, but it does not contain raisins.  Instead, there are small pieces of candied peel, such as orange. The cake is topped with sugar and almonds before being baked. It is soft, buttery and rich in taste - but surprisingly light in texture. Traditionally this sweet bread is supposed to look like a dove, but the ones I have seen here are more in the shape of the cross, rather than a bird.

Colomba Pasquale is now on the official list of traditional Italian food and it is eaten all over Italy around Easter time.

  There are many stories and legends about the origins of la Colomba Pasquale, which was first created in Lombardia. According to one story, this cake was offered as a sign of peace to the king of Longobards, Alboin, who was at war with the city of Pavia in the middle of the sixth century. 

   Another legend gives the honour to the Irish missionary St Columbanus, who arrived to Lombardia towards the end of 5th century.  He and his fellow monks were invited to a great feast by the King of Lombardia, Agilulf and his wife, Queen Theodelinda, who was a devout Roman Catholic. A big banquet with many dishes were prepared, including meat, but since it was still Lent, St Columbanus and his fellow monks did not think it was appropriate and they refused to eat meat.  did not want to offend the hostess, Queen Theodelinda, and said that they could eat meat if it was blessed. St Columbanus then raised his right hand to do the sign of the cross. The food was immediately transformed into white doves of bread. The Queen was so impressed that she decided to donate a piece of land to honour the occasion and St Columbanus founded a monastery, Bobbio Abbey, in this place.

   However, history tells us that it was actually the King who gave St Columbanus the land: he converted to Catholicism and as a thank you gave ruins of an old church and some land to St Columbanus, where he was able to build the monastery in 614. Umberto Eco's novel, Name of the Rose, is based on Bobbio Abbey.

   Sadly, the origins of Colomba Pasquale may not be so mysterious after all. It is said to have been invented by a business man from Milan, who simply decided to modify the same dough used for panettone to create an Easter bread in 1930s. It was an instant hit and was rapidly adopted by bakeries in all over Italy. Sicily has its own version of Colomba Pasquale and in the past, the cake was exchanged as a gift between lovers on Easter time and during other festivities.

  Nevertheless, it is delicious!