Tuesday 18 December 2012

THE GENOVESE - RESERVED? IT'S ALL RELATIVE

The Genovese think that, by nature, they are reserved, inward looking and distant towards their fellow human beings compared to the rest of the Italians.
 "You have to live at least 3 years along the same street before people start saying hello. Then one day it will happen, totally unexpectedly," I was warned early on.
   There is some truth to this rather uncharitable view of the good citizens of Genoa. They are not rushing to be involved in your life or try to hug you to death. Family always comes first and don't think that you as a foreigner will be cosily included in that group anytime fast. That only happens in food programmes with celebrity chefs. People can also behave quite formally in some social situations and expect you to do the same.
    But the Genovese are not necessarily unfriendly. On the contrary.
   Take our local bus stop, for example. More than once, someone has started to talk to me spontaneously about the weather or the irritation of a bus being late.  If you appear to agree, the conversation could soon be wide open to other issues, such as personal memories of a particular bad day when there was a bus strike and the person in question was stuck in town for hours. Once on the bus, an Italian lady sat next to me and talked to me nonstop in Italian. The conversation opener? I had a Kindle and was reading it, when she asked if it is difficult to use. There we quite quickly developed into stories about her granddaughter, who - incidentally - also happened to have a Kindle. That was soon forgotten when she warmed up to the real theme: how difficult it is to get young people to read these days and how studying at the university might not be an option for the granddaughter and did I think that she should not go to the university but to do something practical instead, such as hairdressing? When I said that I cannot speak Italian very well, she said comfortingly that it did not matter at all and she carried on.
    Going to the post office and waiting for your turn with couple of other people, is another classic opportunity. Everyone has a number, therefore you are all in the same queue and what is there to do? Well, a good chat helps to pass the time. This is more of a slippery slope and the camaraderie of queueing takes it for granted that you will participate in that conversation as people want to hear your views about number of issues. At least to agree or disagree. As a minimum.
   The Genovese probably are more reserved compared to other Italians. But my bet is that if there would be an international competition on the matter, the Genovese would not be on top of the table.
  
   
  
   
  
  

  

Thursday 13 December 2012

THE FIRST SIGNS OF CHRISTMAS

This week Genoa seems to have come alive with all things Christmas. Streets are lit with colourful lights. The first nativity scenes have appeared in shop and office windows. Surprisingly, I have not heard much muzak at all in the shops, unlike in - let's say - in London, where people are forced to listen to carols already at the end of November. 
  Last weekend a big indoor Christmas fair, Natalidea, was opened at Fiera di Genova, the local fair centre, and I went to see what was on offer. An easy 5 minute bus trip from Brignole station brought me in the middle of the old harbour area, buzzing with people.

 
It is the flag of Finland, even though upside down, marking the indisputable home country of Santa Claus.
 
The massive hall, which looked a bit industrial to me despite the artificial snow falling from the ceiling at the entrance, was full of small and big stalls selling everything possible from crafts to jewellery, a small section of antiques, cake making equipment, leather goods, handbags, clothes, accessories, Christmas decorations - mostly cheap and cheerful stuff (apart from the antiques, of course). But judging from the number of people, this was also a welcome chance to find a bargain or two!
 
  
 

 

 
 
 
 

 
 

Wednesday 5 December 2012

APARTMENT LIVING WITH MUSIC AND NEIGHBOURS

As most people in Genoa, we live in an apartment block. In Genoa city very few people live in houses - there simply is no land where to build them. But this being Italy, we are not talking about high rising ghettos: the apartment blocks are normally 5-6 floors, very close to each other, carefully painted in calming colours such as muted yellow, mauve, light pink or light blue. The buildings look quite pretty, grouped close to each other. We live on the second floor and next to us is an elderly lady and one other family. I have not yet seen the inhabitants of the two other apartments.
  I used to live in a block of flats as a child in Finland, so I instinctively know the rules: don't  bang the door, don't shout in the corridor, and always say hello to neighbours. The biggest problem is noise. For example, you are not supposed to drag a chair on the floor - you are expected to lift it up and put it in its place with as little noise as possible. Plus you have to put soft, sticky material under the legs of any furniture to avoid leaving any marks on the parque floor and limit - yes, you guessed it - noise.
   I happen to play the flute. It is a beautiful instrument and most people like the sound of a flute. Playing couple of merry tunes every now and then would not really matter. But practicing scales and endless technical exercises could easily strain the relationship even with the most patient neighbours, if they feel that an overdose is being administered.  I asked the landlord if it would be ok to play. He did not think it would be an issue. The building is quite sound proof, he assured me.  
   I discussed this with some people who play instruments for  a living. And they are telling quite intresting stories about how to combine apartment living, neighbours and music. My flute teacher, an American lady living in Genoa, said that their neighbours first started knocking on the walls. Then they got together and approached her with orders: she can play certain times during the day and only in one particular room. Another friend told me how someone in her apartment block plays drums and was drumming quite late in the evening. The neighbours called the police. It turned out that he studied drumming in the local conservatory and therefore, the police told the neighbours that - as it is important for him professionally -  he is allowed to play up until 11 o'clock in the evening. I have some sympathy for the neighbours in this case but playing late at night is not  as unsual as one might think. Italians have a very different rhytm to the day compared to many other nations. The only time that is absolutely sacred is the midday lunch/rest: practically everything stops between 12.30-15.00 and that is the time everyone expects to have some peace and quiet.
   Armed with these stories, I have now identified a room (a small storage room originally) in our apartment. I only play between 10 am to noon, as most people are at work. Between 1600 - 18000 is quite allright as well.
  Then last weekend, Saturday night, our apartment building suddenly came to life. There was at least one lively childrens' party on our floor and a larger gathering somewhere upstairs later in the evening. Dogs were barking in the hallway. Someone was playing the piano until midnight. There was laughter, conversation and the sound of furniture being moved. Somewhere else another person was playing the guitar and singing.
    Perhaps playing the flute might not be such a problem after all.