THE GENOVESE - RESERVED? IT'S ALL RELATIVE

The Genovese think that, by nature, they are reserved, inward looking and distant towards their fellow human beings compared to the rest of the Italians.

 "You have to live at least 3 years along the same street before people start saying hello. Then one day it will happen, totally unexpectedly," I was warned early on.
   There is some truth to this rather uncharitable view of the good citizens of Genoa. They are not rushing to be involved in your life or try to hug you to death. Family always comes first and don't think that you as a foreigner will be cosily included in that group anytime fast. That only happens in food programmes with celebrity chefs. People can also behave quite formally in some social situations and expect you to do the same.

    But the Genovese are not necessarily unfriendly. On the contrary.

   Take our local bus stop, for example. More than once, someone has started to talk to me spontaneously about the weather or the irritation of a bus being late.  If you appear to agree, the conversation could soon be wide open to other issues, such as personal memories of a particular bad day when there was a bus strike and the person in question was stuck in town for hours. Once on the bus, an Italian lady sat next to me and talked to me nonstop in Italian. The conversation opener? I had a Kindle and was reading it, when she asked if it is difficult to use. There we quite quickly developed into stories about her granddaughter, who - incidentally - also happened to have a Kindle. That was soon forgotten when she warmed up to the real theme: how difficult it is to get young people to read these days and how studying at the university might not be an option for the granddaughter and did I think that she should not go to the university but to do something practical instead, such as hairdressing? When I said that I cannot speak Italian very well, she said comfortingly that it did not matter at all and she carried on.

    Going to the post office and waiting for your turn with couple of other people, is another classic opportunity. Everyone has a number, therefore you are all in the same queue and what is there to do? Well, a good chat helps to pass the time. This is more of a slippery slope and the camaraderie of queueing takes it for granted that you will participate in that conversation as people want to hear your views about number of issues. At least to agree or disagree. As a minimum.

   The Genovese probably are more reserved compared to other Italians. But my bet is that if there would be an international competition on the matter, the Genovese would not be on top of the table.

  

   

  
   
  
  

  

THE FIRST SIGNS OF CHRISTMAS

This week Genoa seems to have come alive with all things Christmas. Streets are lit with colourful lights. The first nativity scenes have appeared in shop and office windows. Surprisingly, I have not heard much muzak at all in the shops, unlike in - let's say - in London, where people are forced to listen to carols already at the end of November. 

  Last weekend a big indoor Christmas fair, Natalidea, was opened at Fiera di Genova, the local fair centre, and I went to see what was on offer. An easy 5 minute bus trip from Brignole station brought me in the middle of the old harbour area, buzzing with people.

 

It is the flag of Finland, even though upside down, marking the indisputable home country of Santa Claus.
 

The massive hall, which looked a bit industrial to me despite the artificial snow falling from the ceiling at the entrance, was full of small and big stalls selling everything possible from crafts to jewellery, a small section of antiques, cake making equipment, leather goods, handbags, clothes, accessories, Christmas decorations - mostly cheap and cheerful stuff (apart from the antiques, of course). But judging from the number of people, this was also a welcome chance to find a bargain or two!

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

APARTMENT LIVING WITH MUSIC AND NEIGHBOURS

As most people in Genoa, we live in an apartment block. In Genoa city very few people live in houses - there simply is no land where to build them. But this being Italy, we are not talking about high rising ghettos: the apartment blocks are normally 5-6 floors, very close to each other, carefully painted in calming colours such as muted yellow, mauve, light pink or light blue. The buildings look quite pretty, grouped close to each other. We live on the second floor and next to us is an elderly lady and one other family. I have not yet seen the inhabitants of the two other apartments.

  I used to live in a block of flats as a child in Finland, so I instinctively know the rules: don't  bang the door, don't shout in the corridor, and always say hello to neighbours. The biggest problem is noise. For example, you are not supposed to drag a chair on the floor - you are expected to lift it up and put it in its place with as little noise as possible. Plus you have to put soft, sticky material under the legs of any furniture to avoid leaving any marks on the parque floor and limit - yes, you guessed it - noise.

   I happen to play the flute. It is a beautiful instrument and most people like the sound of a flute. Playing couple of merry tunes every now and then would not really matter. But practicing scales and endless technical exercises could easily strain the relationship even with the most patient neighbours, if they feel that an overdose is being administered.  I asked the landlord if it would be ok to play. He did not think it would be an issue. The building is quite sound proof, he assured me.  

   I discussed this with some people who play instruments for  a living. And they are telling quite intresting stories about how to combine apartment living, neighbours and music. My flute teacher, an American lady living in Genoa, said that their neighbours first started knocking on the walls. Then they got together and approached her with orders: she can play certain times during the day and only in one particular room. Another friend told me how someone in her apartment block plays drums and was drumming quite late in the evening. The neighbours called the police. It turned out that he studied drumming in the local conservatory and therefore, the police told the neighbours that - as it is important for him professionally -  he is allowed to play up until 11 o'clock in the evening. I have some sympathy for the neighbours in this case but playing late at night is not  as unsual as one might think. Italians have a very different rhytm to the day compared to many other nations. The only time that is absolutely sacred is the midday lunch/rest: practically everything stops between 12.30-15.00 and that is the time everyone expects to have some peace and quiet.

   Armed with these stories, I have now identified a room (a small storage room originally) in our apartment. I only play between 10 am to noon, as most people are at work. Between 1600 - 18000 is quite allright as well.

  Then last weekend, Saturday night, our apartment building suddenly came to life. There was at least one lively childrens' party on our floor and a larger gathering somewhere upstairs later in the evening. Dogs were barking in the hallway. Someone was playing the piano until midnight. There was laughter, conversation and the sound of furniture being moved. Somewhere else another person was playing the guitar and singing.

    Perhaps playing the flute might not be such a problem after all.

 

  

  

 

 

 

 

 

STORM APPROACHING

I woke up last night to the sound of constant rain and wind. This morning the sky is all grey with heavy clouds. The local paper, Il Secolo, says that the Commune di Genova has declared Level 1 alert: some schools are closed and people are told to avoid places such as the sea promenade and parks in Nervi. The storm called "Medusa" is expected to hit Genoa this afternoon with heavy showers of rain and strong winds. There is also a slight possibility of flooding - hope it does not get too bad. Definitely a day to stay at home.

NICOLE KIDMAN FILMING IN GENOA

There has been an announcement on our bus stop the whole week in big green letters, flashing on the screen: Via Balbi is closed, use an alternative route, please. Nothing out of the ordinary as such.

However, this time it is not roadworks but  the Australian filmstar Nicole Kidman stopping the traffic. Kidman has been filming her latest movie, "Grace of Monaco", directed by Oliver Dahan, at Palazzo Reale on Via Balbi. One of the most famous rooms of the palace is being used in some scenes instead of the real palace of Monaco.

Kidman has been staying at Hotel Savoy and her admirers have spotted the actress going in and out of the hotel "in character" wearing a blue sweater, big sunglasses and hair styled like the late Grace of Monaco. She has gracefully stopped to wave to fans from a distance, reports the local paper, Il Secolo.

STAY CALM, WE ARE LANDING AT CRISTOFORO COLOMBO AIRPORT

Having done some globetrotting for couple of weeks, I finally flew back home from London Gatwick to Genoa Cristoforo Colombo airport yesterday. This was my last leg after being on the move for 24 hours already. We left wet, misty and wintry London with the BA flight on time.

  It is only a short hour and a half hop from London to Genoa.  The captain sounded very warm and welcoming on the intercom, the usual cheery and professional "you just relax there and leave the flying to me" - type of an announcement, spiced with some information about weather conditions in Genoa. Not that I was listening, as I was too tired to register anything.

  We soon approached the airport after an uneventful time up in the air and the crew prepared everyone  for landing. I knew that the runway at Cristoforo Colombo is a bit short - it is only 2.9 km long -  and that the sea is right next to it. You can often see container ships alarmingly close to the landing strip.

   This time the plane was just about to touch down, when it suddenly shot up again. I know this happens all the time at airports, it is totally normal and a sensible thing to do, if the conditions are not ideal. But it is a different matter altogether, when you are sitting on the said plane and hoping that there is enough fuel, that the pilot has done this before and not just in a simulator. Passengers around me suddenly started chatting. I heard comments such as "it is a dangerous airport, this one", "happens all the time", "planes have ended up to the sea"... hold on! What???

  After some agonising minutes, there was an announcement from the very confident sounding captain, who explained that the crew had not been 100 % happy with the landing conditions, therefore, he had decided to abort the landing and we would now try again. 15 minutes later the plane was positioned to land from a different direction and down we came, with a little bump but quite smoothly, under the circumstances. The passengers gave spontaneous applauds to the captain and the crew.

  Back at home I immediately checked the Aviation Safety Network (www. flightsafety.org) to find out if it is true that Genoa is a dangerous place to land. The last recorded incident with fatalities occurred in 1999 when a domestic flight from Cagliari failed to land in 15-18 knot winds and crashed to the sea. Out of 31 people on board, 4 died.

  Even though I take comfort in statistics, I also know that from now on, there is an additional factor every time I arrive to Genoa by air. Trains from Milano do sound quite an attractive alternative, but in truth this would be too impractical. The only thing to do is to stay calm and land at Cristoforo Colombo....

THE NIGHT OF WITCHES AND WIZARDS

I have always thought that Halloween is mainly an American invention, which has not really taken root anywhere else. How wrong can one be. Despite heavy rains, ice cold wind and very stormy weather in general, people here in Nervi were pretty determined to celebrate Halloween last night. This could also have something to do with the fact that we are having two public holidays (All Saints and All Souls Days) in the middle of the week, which means that it is a looooong weekend in Italy.

   In our neighbourhood, children were dressed as witches and wizards, going around apartments. "Trick or treat" is a tradition well alive here. One particular group of kids in our apartment block were having lots of fun giggling for ages in the hallway before mustering enough courage to ring doorbells - they did collect quite a few treats. This week the bakeries have sold special, very yummy Halloween cookies and there has been Halloween costume parties at schools.

   However, Halloween is not just for kids. In several Italian cities, Genoa included, many night time events are organised. A friend told me that in Genoa you can collect a map in the centre of town late in the evening.  The map does not have street names. Your task is to find several "treasures" marked on the map and when you arrive to the spot, there might be a performance, delicious food or something else to remember.

  I would have loved to test this, but sadly the storm kept us indoors with hot drinks and less spooky entertainment.  Next year, perhaps. Winter has finally arrived, no doubt about it!

APPEARANCES ARE EVERYTHING - EVEN WHEN DEAD

 

"If you want to know about the living, go and see how they bury their dead",  is quite a famous saying and true indeed. In Genoa, the old historical cemetery, Cimitero Monumentale di Staglieno, is one such place. Here the Genovese merchants, industrialists, politicians and national heroes as well as those who achieved any kind of fame during their lifetime are buried at great expense. I visited Staglieno last week with a group of ladies from the American International Womens' Club. Our guide, Roberta, told us a fascinating story of how Genoa once was the most important city for industrial development in Italy, thanks to the port and many new manufacturing inventions. The many sculptures and tombs in Staglieno reveal how people lived and worked in the old days, what they believed in and how the city and its inhabitants have changed over time. But above all, how the notable families wanted to be remembered by future generations.

 

 

 

Staglieno is partly situated on a hill and quite a few of the buildings and structures can be seen when approaching the cemetery from the city centre direction.

Impressive, lifelike sculptures were commissioned by the rich and wealthy to decorate the family tombs. Men liked to include tools of their trade and women wanted to be remembered for their good works.

 

This sculpture is one of four art works selected by an American artist, who has recently been given permission by the City of Genoa to clean and restore the statues to their former glory.

It is all because of Napoleon Bonaparte that Staglieno exists in the first place: he gave an order in 1804 that everybody, rich and poor, have to be buried in church, which meant that specially designed areas had to be created. Staglieno opened in 1851 and it is still going strong. There are 60 000 graves in Staglieno and new areas are created every day. This is possible due to an interesting custom in Italy: a family can have a grave site up to 30 years, but after that time all the people buried in that particular site will be dug out and bones will be put in a smaller container and buried elsewhere. City officials administering the cemetery decide where the remains will be reburied, not the families. However, the most historical graves at Staglieno are an exception to this rule.

 

The details in these statues on this corridor are an amazing testimony what a remarkable material marble
 is in the hands of a skillful artist.

 Staglieno is divided into several sections. It is a large place, not easily explored in couple of hours. This is a place where you need to come back again and again to truly appreciate its beuty and significance. There is a Jewish cemetery and separate sections for protestants and catholics as well as for the English, who came to Genoa to make their fortune. There are also areas dedicated to war heroes and a particularly beautiful spot is reserved for children. Famous people, such as wife of Oscar Wilde, Constance, is buried here as well as the Italian national hero Giuseppe Mazzini. Also, the Italian singer-songwriter Fabrizio De Andre, who died in 1999, has his last resting place here.

 

Giuseppe Mazzini (1805-1872) was an intellectual, politician and journalist, who campaigned for the unification of Italy.

The best artists of the day (Giulio Monteverde and Leonardo Bistolfi among others) were engaged to create the most impressive art works.  Even though the historical tombs are important, Staglieno is also about architecture and beautifully preserved landscapes.




The details in some of the sculptures are astonishing: monks did not have pockets in their robes and therefore they carried handkerchiefs in the sleeves. Sure enough, a handkerchief is hidden in one of the sleeves, under the book,  in this life size portrait of a monk reading a text.

 Roberta told us how, in the 1850s when Staglieno was opened,  realism influenced the artists making the marble sculptures. At that time people were certain that there will be life after death. They wanted to reflect this by commissioning statues that would picture them exactly as they were when alive, down to the last details of dress and facial expressions, even the furniture that was used as a backdrop to the statues was often carefully re-created.  Photography was developing at the same time and notable families thought it so important to get their place of honour at Staglieno, that they were willing to pose for a long time for a photographer to snap a picture of them having the last look of a dying relative.



This family scene was re-created from a photograph.

Later, the lifelike sculptures were abandoned in order to reflect new beliefs. Life after death was not so certain anymore and in the beginning of 1900s art deco style became more dominant. There are beautiful examples of this at Staglieno.



A dance with death. This art work caused a small scandal at the time it was revealed to the general public as the dancing lady was not properly dressed...

It was not just the rich and wealthy who wanted to be buried at Staglieno. The most famous story is that of the Peanut Lady of Genoa. She sold peanuts and small snacks in street corners and saved a big part of her meagre income in order to have a tomb at Staglieno. Her story became famous in the city and she got her wish. Roberta, our guide, told us that her statue is the only one of a working woman. Generally speaking, ladies wanted to portray themselves as good wives and mothers and not as someone who had to earn their own living.

 



The Peanut Lady of Genoa.



 

   

PASSEGGIATA ANITA GARIBALDI

In the heart of Nervi, where we live, is a beautiful promenade by the sea, passeggiata Anita Garibaldi.

It is easy to find if you come by train: step out of Nervi station, walk 10 metres and you will see a sign "Marinella" on the left. Go down the stone path and you have arrived.

  This is my favourite place anytime of day. Early in the morning you will see people jogging and walking their dogs. At lunchtime small, informal looking beach restaurants open for business and tables fill in quickly. Late afternoon it is time for a quick espresso or a generous portion of ice cream. In the evening there is a gentle breeze from the sea and it is the perfect place to build up an appetite and have a quick drink, an aperitivo, before dinner.
 

 

 

The fully covered path, 2 km in length one way, officially starts from this small port for small leisure boats (see pic above).  

 

 

 

This area is worth exploring too: there are many restaurants, cafes and ice cream bars. Also, a communal outdoor swimming pool at the end of the pear, which is currently closed. However, it is possible to walk all the way to the end of the pear and have a swim from there. 

 

 

 

The path twists and turns with a full view of the sea. Very, very long time ago - from 1820s onwards - the same route was used by fishermen and farmers. In 1945 the city of Genoa named it according to Anita Garibaldi, wife of general Giuseppe Garibaldi. The passeggiata looks very green and tropical in places, there are huge palms and other trees along the way.

 

 

 

 

Along the passeggiata there are couple of kayaking clubs and a diving school. Often on the weekends, it is fun to watch people playing water polo with the kayaks. A natural rock pool is open during the hottest months of the year.  In many places, there are also steps down leading the rocks. Quite good for fishing too, judging by the number of hopefuls with their fishing rods every weekend.

 

 

 

During the weekend, especially on Sundays, you will not see passeggiata as empty in this pic above. The benches are full of people reading newspapers, talking to phones, chatting with friends...

 

 

Ships queueing to get to the Genoa port are a common sight. I love watching the ships, often 3-4 together forming a chain.

 

 

 

Several well marked small tunnels and steps from the passeggiata lead to Parco di Nervi. This very big park is a great area for walking and if sea views are not enough to keep one entertained, three art galleries certainly will!

 

 



 

LOUIS VUITTON OR MAYBE NOT

  What a gorgeous handbag! It caught my eye immediately: there it was, on the pavement, on top of black plastic sheet with 10 other bags, wallets and belts. They all looked very expensive and had impressive designer labels or an easily recognisable pattern. The details were right too, glimmering gold locks and embellishments.  Even though I must have slowed down only for couple of seconds, the street vendors - a group of African men - took notice and were immediately watching me, smiling invitingly. I quickened my step. Tempting, but no: buying fake goods is a criminal offence in Italy and the fiscal police does take their duties seriously. Being a tourist is no excuse and a heavy fine (up to 1000 euro)  or worse would be certain to spoil any holiday.

  There are still many people willing to take the risk. Counterfeit products are now a billion dollar business, especially in Italy and France. There is evidence that bags, shoes and accessories are manufactured elsewhere and then shipped to Italy, where the all important finishing touches are added. The fake products are also increasingly well made, which is another big head ache for the designers of luxury goods. It is interesting that both Italy and France have chosen to make buying of fake goods an offence. It is not a crime in Britain, for example.

  

  

MIRO: "MY STUDIO IS A GARDEN AND I AM THE GARDENER"

The Genovese seem to think that this is a second rate city when it comes to cultural events compared to the rest of  Italy. I don't think that Genoa is doing too badly, though. Right now, for example, there is a big Joan Miro exhibition "Poetry and Light"  at the Palazzo Ducale (see also  www.come-to-liguria.com).

   I went there this morning early, wanting to avoid crowds and had a great luxury of walking through the exhibition as almost the only visitor. Later, of course, there were plenty others wanting to see the works of Miro, but it was really nice to look at the paintings in peace and quiet.

 

The Miro exhibition will run until April 7th 2013 at Palazzo Ducale in Genoa.

 

   In Italy an ID is required if you want to have an audio guide in English to go through an exhibition. I had forgotten my passport at home and was not able to have the gadget, but nevertheless, the story of Miro was told in many ways including posters in English. The most interesting was an interview with 84-year old Miro, who was talking to his friend. The interview was in French with Italian subtitles, but it was still possible to understand some of their conversation. Miro came across as a gentle person, whose imagination was still very much alive.

   Apart from 50 large, abstract paintings, there are also bronzes/sculptures and works made of all kinds of materials, including old newspapers and wood. All of them are on show in Italy for the first time.  I have to say that most of the paintings left me somewhat cold, however, I loved the ones with deep blue/red/yellow colours, which were inspired by nature in Majorca, where Miro painted.  It was easier to connect with Miro's signature images of birds, the moon and the eyes than the more difficult, strong black strokes of paint on white background.

   Miro's studio was reproduced in one room and it had many of the original objects the artist used daily. Standing in front of the studio, you could get a feel of a great creative mind, surrounded by finished and unfinished paintings.

  The small section of sculptures was a revelation to me. They were so funny and playful: simple, everyday objects had been transformed into something totally different. They made me laugh and wonder, how come I have never realised that a woman's body or a bird could look like that.  

 

 

Palazzo Ducale will also host a photographic exhibition by Steve McCurry soon.

 

 The Miro exhibition is not the only reason to visit Palazzo Ducale. From 18th October 2012 to February 24th 2013, there will also be an unmissable opportunity to see 200 photographs by Steve McCurry. The image on the poster is that of an Afghan girl, Sharbat Gula, which caused quite a stir when it was published on the cover of National Geographic magazine in June 1985. This particular photo will be on display.
 

 

  

 

BAROQUE MUSIC IN AN OLD BASILICA

A famous Italian architect Galeazzo Alessi may have died in 1572, but in Genoa, he is remembered fondly to this day. One of the most notable of Alessi's many designs is a Renaissance church Santa Maria Assunta in Carignano, located in the old historical heart of the city, a magnificent building, which took 50 years to construct. On Friday,  a baroque music concert was organised in honour of Alessi, who was born 500 years ago, in 1512.  I went with friends to listen to a wonderful selection of pieces by Vivaldi, Monteverdi and Mascitti.  Even though the acoustics in the old church was less than perfect at times during the performance, I thoroughly enjoyed the group, La Risonanza. The concert was free and the church full to the last seat. This was only one of the many free classical music concerts organised in Genoa, throughout the year, for anyone to enjoy. Another pleasant discovery about Genoa as a city in the past couple of weeks!

BARGAINS, BARGAINS, BARGAINS AT SERRAVALLE

I am no fashionista, but occasionally I have been known to fall for designer stuff. Handbags are a major weakness, I admit. However, to get something "hot" with bargain prices has a major appeal.

Today Daughter and I had a blast at one of the many designer outlets in Europe: Serravalle. Only an hour or so from Genoa, it can easily be reached by car or - if you are going on a weekend - a shuttle bus from Piazza Caricamento in Porto Antico will take you there too. The navetta (means shuttle in Italian, but a cowshed in Finnish) leaves at 10 am and returns back to Genoa from Serravalle at 5 PM. Customers are picked up from Genoa Principe railway station too - 5-10  minutes after it has left Porto Antico. Make sure that you travel on Saturday, Sunday or Monday if you want to use the shuttle. Only 15 euros return, it is not a bad price for a great day out!

 

Tickets can be bought on the day, at least out of the main tourist season.

 

   Contrary to a common belief, not all Italians are wondering around dressed in Dolce & Gabbana. They don't all have shoes by Ferragamo or everyday clothing from Versace. Lots of people do have handbags which look like Louis Vuitton, but believe me they are not (I know handbags, more of that later). All the big shots are represented at Serravalle and yes, there are bargains at the high end of fashion as well.

Serious discounts available.

 

Serravalle is not about going through piles of stuff in a warehouse environment.

However, the "middle of the road" fashion boutiques get my vote at Serravalle. There are real bargains available for anyone looking for the latest "have-to-have-jeans", sportswear, the wacky and quirky. Shoes would easily merit a blog entry of their own.

 

Fashion right now in Italy. Ladies are mostly wearing leggings and stylish tops combined with killer shoes.
Jeans are acceptable, but have to be a tight fit.
Accessories are everything. That is the secret to the Italian style.
 

   .

 

I am very unlikely to hit the "red carpet" any time soon, but if that opportunity ever arises, I will buy these shoes to make a lasting impression.  Sadly, had to leave them on the window.

 

See above.

 

 

   Serravalle is not just about clothes either. There are very good shops for all sorts of stuff for home - all in all, numerous shops, all within easy walking distance in a village environment. I have visited some outlets/factory shops in the US and this is a very different experience: it is designed for people to enjoy, there is no feeling of entering a cheap factory warehouse, where you go through piles of things in no particular order, trying to find you size. Serravalle is not about being cheap and cheerful, it is about shopping good quality stuff with reasonable prices and serious discounts. You may not always find your size.

Word of warning: Plan your day. Plan when are you going to have lunch, as all the restaurants get incredibly full with long, long queues from 1 PM to 2.30 PM. Catch the wave and be there earlier or later than that. We ended up walking around a long time, trying to get lunch. Eventually, there was a lull and we were able to have something to eat. There are only one or two places at Serravalle offering table service, but mostly it is easy "serve yourself and pay at the till" food, which is totally appropriate for Serravalle.

A SNACK - GENOVESE STYLE

There is a bakery on our street, more commonly known as a Focacceria. They offer the most popular savoury snack around here, the focaccia, from early morning to late in the evening, seven days a week. This flat, deliciously buttery bread with toppings, attracts a constant stream of customers. In fact, these type of small bakeries are almost as numerous as cafees, there is one on every street corner.

This may not look that special - but wait until you taste the rich, creamy cheese filling on this Focaccia al formaggio and you will never, ever touch a hot dog again! The best focaccia al formaggio is said to be baked in Recco, which is another small town not far from Genoa city.

 

 

Olives give this focaccia a particularly lovely, salty flavour. One piece of this size is about 2 euro.

A focaccia can be eaten any time of the day - it is at its best straight from the hot oven and normally enjoyed there and then, in the street, from a paper bag. Focaccia comes with numerous toppings: olives, cheese, herbs, potatoes, onions.... It is produced in big, flat pans and a piece will be cut according to customers' wishes. Delicious! Yum!


MUSHROOM SEASON AT THE MERCATO ORIENTALE

   - Signora, look at these beauties! You want mushrooms? These are the best! And for you, signora, special price!
   I had just walked into a market early on Friday morning, escaping rain, when the man standing in front of boxes and boxes of  chantarelles spotted me. He was already putting them in a brown paperbag and I heard myself saying "yes, please". I have no will power when it comes to mushrooms... I looked around: Stall after stall full of fresh mushrooms of all kinds. I had come to the right place. 
       You want to know what is in season? Step inside the Mercato Orientale.

  Every big city in Europe has at least one, old, indoor market hall with lots of character and in Genoa  it is the Mercato Orientale. Very conveniently located on Via XX Settembre, one of the main shopping streets, it is actually easy to miss as the sign for the entrance is not that visible.

  Everything sold here on the bottom floor is attractively displayed. Mountains of apples, oranges, nectarines, bunches of carrots, spinach, cucumbers, tomatoes... you name it.The air smells of spices and herbs. Fresh fish lies on beds of ice. Massive blocks of Parmesan cheese, aged for months and months, is sold here.  You can also find Genovese specialities such as offal prepared according to old recipes.

 

   It may be a bit dissapointing to hear that the Mercato Orientale has nothing to do with Asia or some other exotic faraway eastern spot. The name means Eastern market, but it merely indicates that it was once situated in the east side of the city, said the guide book I have been reading recently.

There are several entrances and exits to the Mercato - it is worth taking any of them when going out of the market. I ended up in a small alleyway, just behind Via XX Settembre, buzzing with people sitting in small cafees, chatting or stopping to buy a newspaper from a kiosk in the street. This is what I like about Genoa - it is not an "open city", it has to be discovered...

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CONVERSATIONS IN ITALIAN

  I admire the Italians. They really protect their own culture. They have collectively come to the conclusion that yes, English language has its uses, but there is no need to contaminate the nation as a whole with foreign influences. It is a big mistake in Italy to walk into an office/shop/hotel and expect to be understood in English. I know that as a foreigner, I don't have a choice: I have to learn Italian as soon as possible because, frankly, I feel like being closed in an airtight capsul in a space station, trying to communicate with life outside.
  On the other hand, it is quite comforting that Italians I have met so far, really try to understand what I am trying to say. They are very willing and happy to make a good guess too. Imagine, trying to carefully construct a sentence, waiting for a very simple "yes" or "no" answer. Instead, you are welcomed with a shower of explanations in Italian. All you can do, is to smile helplessly.
   It is amazing too, how the language courses and CDs spend awful long time in explaining how to behave in restaurants, such as to order food & drink (when the waiters can understand from the slightest hint what you may want and never tell you about the daily specials, which are truly delicious).  These courses give you a totally false confidence, believe me. The vocabulary needed in tricky, everyday situations is totally forgotten.

    I had one such situation the other day. An electrician came to put up some lamps  - yes, it is best to have an electrician to do this if you don't want to be electrocuted on the spot - and check which sockets are functioning and which ones are not. An Italian friend, who happened to be on holiday in Genoa, arranged the appointmen with the electrician. He came on time and after couple of hours everything was done. Very happy customer, thank you.

    However, quite soon after he had said arrivederci, I noticed that he had left his machine for checking the electrical current behind. Now, this is not a standard thing. I don't even know what is that thing called in English. But I knew that I will have to make a Telephone Call to tell him about this and ask when will he be able to come and pick it up. Out came the little pocket dictionary. After checking some words from the dictionary, I had enough courage to make the call.
I will reconstruct this here in English for the benefit of readers, but this is how it went in Italian - at least how I thought it went:

Me: Aah, Good Evening, this is Mrs X.

Mr Electrician: Good evening.

Me: You. Forgetting. Machine. At my house.

Mr Electrician: You want my address?

Me: No, no, thank you. A problem. Yellow machine. At my house.

Mr Electrician: What? I don't understand.

Me: Yellow. Machine. Electric current. At my house.

Mr Electrician: (Silence for a while). AAAAAH, I understand. You have the machine to measure electrical current and I left it there?

Me: Yes (with a huge relief).

And then we agreed that he will come and collect it the next morning, which he did.
Phewww. Cannot wait for the next problem to be solved in Italian.
 

 

 

 

 

   

SHOPPING FOR THE DAILY GROCERIES

Whenever we have been travelling to a new country, one visit is always included in the itinerary: a   trip to the  local supermarket. Nothing reveals more about the daily life than what is stocked on  the shelves. This is true of Italy, too. Naturally, I can only talk about Genoa, where we have lived no longer than for a few weeks. In other words, what I am saying below is not based on a carefully conducted survey of consumer behaviour including interviews with statistically relevant groups of Italians. It is totally based on experiences of one keen consumer and master shopper: me.    
   Prices aside - something being "cheap" or "expensive" depends so much on what you are comparing it with - it is also interesting to note where people shop and what is included in their shopping baskets.  If you think that approximately 1000 euro a month is a fairly normal salary here  (after taxes), it is no wonder that the average consumer has to be careful where and what they shop. My initial impression is that the price of food is definitely lower in Italy compared to the UK and Finland. More about prices later, when I get a chance to investigate this properly.
   For foreigners like us, it is a blessing that there is a big supermarket chain, COOP, quite close to us. This is the equivalent of Tesco in the UK or Kesko Supermarkets in Finland. Your usual "go once a week-usually-on-a-Saturday-and-stock up-on-everything-possible" kind of shop.  But what they stock is definitely very, very Italian and reflects the nation's diet in general.

   Supermarkets have a critical audience to please since Italians expect food to be absolutely fresh and a very high quality.  Take olive oil, for example. There is not just one type of extra virgin olive oil from a nameless factory. No, no. Olive oil is given almost the same respect as fine wine: they come from all regions with pretty labels and a description of the flavor. In the supermarket you can see several shelves of olive oils. Italians love good quality olive oil and they are ready to go to some lengths to get what they want. This includes growing your own olive trees and pressing oil from them - one olive tree produces approx. 2 litres of oil. However, this is expensive and time consuming. Alternatively, if you live in a city, you may get a good supply of olive oil from a relative, who knows somebody making exceptionally good olive oil somewhere in a rural area with plenty of olive trees and you can buy litres and litres of the stuff in one go, which will last for a long time.  In which case, you don't need it from a supermarket.
    The same goes with pasta. The variety on offer is staggering. There really is a difference between good pasta and an average product. How do you recognise the best quality, is still a bit of a mystery to me. But the Italians will not make a mistake in these matters. Then there is cheese and wine - the list goes on and on. A decent bottle of red/white wine is approximately 5 to 8 euro. Lesser quality wine is also sold in the same way as milk, in cartons.

    But the supermarkets have not yet killed all the corner shops here.  On the contrary, customers are very loyal to their local butcher, fishmonger, bakery, cheese shop, pastry shop or fruit & veg stall.  It is common to shop for fresh ingredients daily and walking to your local shop quickly becomes a daily ritual. This often gives a chance to catch up with friends too, who are doing the same thing. Afterwards, it may be nice to pop into a cafe for an espresso and a cornetto (a type of croissant). On top of the local food shops, there are also street markets, especially for fruit and veg. Personal service, a chance to sample the produce or buying a small quantity are some of the plusses.
  The only slightly annoying thing is that usually all the small shops have a day during the week when they are closed. This can be any day of the week. Also, closing a shop for the afternoon, especially during the holiday season (August/September), is taken for granted.

     The small, local shops have their own rules. Depending on the type of shop,  it is not always acceptable to touch any products on display yourself. You have to ask and wait to be served by the shop assistant. Another interesting difference is that, for example, bread is sold priced per kilo. In a bakery, you have to tell the shop assistant how much bread you need - let's say - half a loaf. In our local bakery, this would be  500 gr and the price  2 euro 25 cents.  This bread is best eaten on the same day, as it will be hard as stone the next morning. However, left over bread is often used in salads and soups.
  The supermarket bread is cheaper and sliced, but suspiciously soft even after several days, which makes you wonder how much preservatives have been put into it. I also collapsed with laughter, when I noticed a small sign in the plastic cover of the supermarket bread: "100g of bread equals 30 minutes of exercise". Oh dear.
  It is refreshing to see that the supermarkets have not totally bulldozed small shops aside here.  This is totally thanks to consumers who choose to shop differently and by doing so, they believe that they are getting a much better deal. So do I.
 
  
  

 

 

  

 

ON THE BEACH IN SEPTEMBER

We are having a second summer here. It has been very hot, sunny and humid since last week, at least +25 C and above every day. The apartment quickly becomes like a sauna, unless the air conditioning units are on all the time, in which case the place is like a giant freezer. On days like this there is only one place to be: the beach. The breeze from the sea makes life a bit more bearable and gives an instant relief from heat of the day.

  In Nervi you can either find your own spot on the rocks near the promenade Anita Garibaldi or use one of the many beach locations around Nervi, Quinto and Quarto. Quite a few of them have umbrellas, sunchairs and a cafe/bar attached. In some places along the promenade, there are big signs declaring that the water is polluted and swimming therefore forbidden, but few people treat that as a serious health warning. Towels are spread on the beach, sun tan lotions applied and the leasurely business of getting yourself nicely tanned can start. Alternatively, there are couple of public swimming pools in the area. One of them is a really beautiful natural rock pool with stunning sea views. I have admired it from the safety of the promenade, but come next summer and I will be 10 kg lighter in a killer swimming costume and designer sun glasses... Right now there is still some work to do before I dare to enter the world of very beatiful people.

  During the weekend all possible spots in the middle of the rocks and natural beaches are occupied. But apart from people trying to get a nice tan, there are some who cannot sit still even on hot days like these. They are members of the local kayaking club. Increadibly fit looking men with bronzed bodies and tiny swimming trunks are carrying the kayaks into the sea.  Boats are also popular, but mainly relatively small boats with engines rather than posh looking yachts. During summer months (July-August), it is even possible to take a two hour trip  (one way) to the National Park of Cinque Terre from Nervi, something we failed to notice until it was too late and the season was over. Never mind.

  I have no idea what autumn will be like here. Cannot be too bad, if summer lingers on like this. But for the time being - let's enjoy the sun!

 

 

 

 

 

WHEN WALKING IN THE OLD TOWN - LOOK UP!

We had a really good time yesterday, exploring the Centro Storico, the Old Town of Genoa. Walking is really the best way to see it and we started from Via Garibaldi, which is now for pedestrians only. It is said to be the oldest medieval historical centre in Europe: full of mysterious and spooky alleyways, numerous churches, grand palaces, museums and historical shops which still serve their customers as if nothing has changed in the last 100 years, not to mention bars, trattorias and restaurants full of people, enjoying a fun day out. It is also very easy to get lost. But does it really matter? There will soon be a piazza or other such landmark to guide you back to a familiar path.  

 

The Centro Historico is not for tourists only: a large number of people still live in the area in the old apartments.
Not sure how much creature comforts there are today.

Most of the Centro Historico is for pedestrians only.

It is normal all over Italy to dry your knickers outside for everyone to see,
but somehow it adds a special flavour to the Centro Storico. The whole area could be a backdrop to a Fellini film.

There is so much to see but not only on the street level. The number of decorations and small statues up on the walls is impressive too. I find it astonishing that someone has gone through the trouble of making a simple stone wall beautiful. There must have been a small army of  skillful artisans employed by noblemen willing to pay for it too. What made them do it?

 

 

 

 

An Italian friend, who grew up in Genoa, told us that the owners of private palaces along the streets of the Centro Storico were very rich people who did not want to show their wealth openly. That is why many of these palaces look very ordinary buildings with relatively discreet entrances, but inside the rooms are magnificently decorated with gold and silver, luxurious silk and velvet and specially made furniture.

 

Not your average butcher shop but specialities such as salami and parma ham made to perfection.

 

 

Piazza de Ferrari

 

There is always a queue outside this sandwich shop. The sandwiches will be
made for you on the spot  New York style. 
 

Centro Storico is full of churches and cathedrals. This is one of the most famous, Chiesa del Gesu in Piazza Matteotti.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A HITCHCOCK MOMENT

"We are being watched, " John said one morning when we were having coffee on the glass covered balcony area in our apartment. "The man next door is looking at us", he added. I did not want to turn around as it would have been a bit too obvious that we had noticed and carried on drinking coffee. We were clearly being observed from a distance, but not in a sinister way - more curiosity than anything else.

 

The balcony- or a khonde as I we would have called it in Malawi - is my favourite area in the whole apartment.  Effectively, it is an extra room where we can have breakfast, lunch and dinner, have drinks, read books - you get the picture. This space is very handy, especially since the lounge is still full of unfinished IKEA furniture with boxes everywhere. Naturally, we spend a lot of time here. However,  it is a bit like being in a fish bowl. Everyone can see you and likewise, you can discreetly absorb quite a few facts about your neighbours without being intrusive as such. I am now beginning to understand why everyone has heavy wooden shutters on every window. It is partly protection from the sun and rain, but also partly because nobody can see through when the shutters are closed. And they are closed most of the time.

 

We were sitting on the balcony one evening, having dinner, lights on as it was already dark.  There was a nice buzz in the air: lots of people walking in the street, stopping to have a chat with friends in the bar/cafe down below, in the street. The local train passed every 15 minutes or so on its way to the city or back from there, its compartments illuminated. Scooters speeding through the street, couple of dogs barking. I was looking at the opposite house, casually registering that I can actually see into someone else's apartment where they were making dinner. I looked around again and saw a couple in another balcony, chatting and playing cards. I noticed laundry hanging outside the windows and another neighbour tending to her plants. I noticed all these things just by sitting there and watching the world go by...

 

And then it hit me: I have seen this scene somewhere.

Yes, in Rear Window, a movie by Alfred Hitchcock. If you have not seen this classic film with James Steward and Grace Kelly, it is well worth watching. If you have seen it - you will understand.

TUNNELS, TOLLS AND HOW TO GET AROUND TOWN

There is one big relief - we don't need to buy a car immediately, thanks to an excellent system of public transport (buses stopping at our door step). The traffic in Genoa is probably no worse than any other big European city, but there are couple of special features, which I am very happy to observe from afar first.

When approaching Genoa (let's say from Milan) on the autostrada,  there is an impressive tunnel system to by-pass the city centre. For example, to get to Nervi, where we are, you need to follow the signs to Livorno (which is not at all obvious choice of a road when you look at the map), drive through several tunnels and then take the exit to Nervi. If you take the wrong exit, it may take a while to find your way back to the autostrada...a bit like in America.

The tunnels are very long  and oh boy, do people drive fast in them!

The tunnels are hundreds of meters long and in winter time the bit between exiting and entering the next tunnel can become slippery with ice, which is a real hazard and causes many accidents.

In May, I had to take a taxi once and we were whizzing through one of the tunnels, when I happened to glance the speed meter: 130km/h. I asked the taxi driver, what is the speed limit in these tunnels and he immediately slowed down to 100 km/h. The right answer is 90km/h, as several strategically placed traffic signs clearly indicated. However, be prepared to endure flashing lights from fellow drivers plus impatient attempts to overtake you, if you stick to that limit.

Every now and then along the autostrada (when entering and exiting the road) there is toll station, where you have to pay a fee for using the road.  There are different lanes for paying with coins, notes or with  telepass, which is kind of a reader and lets you pass and debits your account directly.

Using the toll roads is expensive. Old roads are often parallel to the autostrada  and it takes a lot longer to get to the desired destination if using them, however, the scenery is usually much more rewarding compared to the monotony of a motorway.

This is not the best possible picture of the massive number of scooters parked
in the streets of Genoa, but gives an idea anyway.

When in the city, it does not take long to realise, which tribe rules the roads. This is best to be observed on traffic lights: in front of all the cars, there are usually 10-15 scooters/vespas waiting for the green light. Girls in high heels, men in shorts and t-shirts or in suits,  grannies and grandads - everybody uses the scooter. These now come with all kinds of bells and whistles. It is clearly not a done thing to wear heavy leather gear to protect your body, a helmet is enough.

I have already resigned to the fact, that it will not take long before Daughter will spot one essential item, which no Italian teenager can be without...