G IS FOR GENOA: WHEN WALKING IN THE OLD TOWN

Saturday 8 September 2012

WHEN WALKING IN THE OLD TOWN - LOOK UP!

We had a really good time yesterday, exploring the Centro Storico, the Old Town of Genoa. Walking is really the best way to see it and we started from Via Garibaldi, which is now for pedestrians only. It is said to be the oldest medieval historical centre in Europe: full of mysterious and spooky alleyways, numerous churches, grand palaces, museums and historical shops which still serve their customers as if nothing has changed in the last 100 years, not to mention bars, trattorias and restaurants full of people, enjoying a fun day out. It is also very easy to get lost. But does it really matter? There will soon be a piazza or other such landmark to guide you back to a familiar path.

The Centro Historico is not for tourists only: a large number of people still live in the area in the old apartments.
Not sure how much creature comforts there are today.

Most of the Centro Historico is for pedestrians only.

It is normal all over Italy to dry your knickers outside for everyone to see,
but somehow it adds a special flavour to the Centro Storico. The whole area could be a backdrop to a Fellini film.

There is so much to see but not only on the street level. The number of decorations and small statues up on the walls is impressive too. I find it astonishing that someone has gone through the trouble of making a simple stone wall beautiful. There must have been a small army of skillful artisans employed by noblemen willing to pay for it too. What made them do it?

An Italian friend, who grew up in Genoa, told us that the owners of private palaces along the streets of the Centro Storico were very rich people who did not want to show their wealth openly. That is why many of these palaces look very ordinary buildings with relatively discreet entrances, but inside the rooms are magnificently decorated with gold and silver, luxurious silk and velvet and specially made furniture.